Cut it back to around 30 inches to help reestablish the plant’s previous shoot-to-root ratio. Nevertheless, spreaders encourage flowering and fruiting in young trees.Ī one-year-old bare-root whip is ideal to plant.Wide crotch angles are not essential, because pear trees have tougher wood that is less apt to split.However, pear trees do not require as much pruning.In general, the same pruning and training principles used for apple should be followed for pears.I have never used any wound paints and have never had a problem with diseased wounds. A healthy apple or pear tree should be able to heal wounds itself. You can still buy these products but they are unnecessary – in fact, they could even seal in any disease that is on the cut.
In the past ‘wound dressings’ were painted on to the wood exposed by cutting to stop it drying out and protect it from insects and diseases. Within a few months the wound made by the cut will callous over. In both cases you should make a single, clean cut.If there is no collar, cut parallel to the trunk, following the line of the trunk.If there is a swollen ‘collar’ where the stump joins the apple or pear tree trunk, saw close to the outer edge of this collar.You can then saw off the remaining stump.Be careful when the branch falls away – they are always far heavier than they appear.Follow this with a second cut from the top of the branch, adjacent to the first cut, but further away from the trunk.Make a cut about a third of the way through the underside of the branch you are removing, about 25cm from the apple tree trunk.The weight of large apple and pear branches will make them tear into the trunk, damaging the tree, if you try to remove them in a single cut.Remove large branches from apples and pears in two stages © Gavin Kingcome
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